Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
